George Washington came often to the historic Reynolds Tavern, built-in 1747 on Church Circle. Rumor had it that the father of our country was enamored of William Reynold’s widow Mary, who ran the tavern from 1777-85. Gazing at Washington’s portrait over one of the restaurant’s fireplaces, it is easy to imagine what the place looked like in the 18th century.
Fast forward to 1935, when this prime example of Georgian architecture was saved from the wrecking ball by a group of far-sighted Annapolitans who blocked a move by Standard Oil Company to put up a gas station on the site. Instead, the building served as the Annapolis Public Library until it outgrew its space in 1974, and its title was transferred to the National Trust for Historic Preservation, then leased to the Historic Annapolis Foundation.
Ten years later, the late visionary Paul Pearson restored the tavern to its original importance but at such expense that it reverted to Farmers National Bank and stood idle until 2000. Along came British-born Jill and Andrew Petit who opened it as an inn and tearoom. Since then it expanded to a full-service restaurant, with seasonal patio dining and a tiny pub in the basement. Today, Reynolds Tavern is a place for all seasons, including fall and winter when its old-fashioned charm has a special appeal.
Each year, the current innkeepers, Wes and Marilyn Lynch take pride in dressing up Reynolds Tavern for the holidays—decking the halls and two dining rooms with traditional garlands and boughs of holly. Since 2003, the couple has presided over a multifaceted operation that features daily lunch and tea service, dinner five days a week, a cozy cellar pub called The Sly Fox, and overnight accommodations in a trio of suites on the third floor.
While its signature British tea is what established Reynolds Tavern as a popular destination for women, it is the tavern’s hearty lunch and dinner menus that appeal to their male companions. We have dined there twice recently—experiencing the distinctive personalities of each public room. Our nomination for one of the most romantic dining spots in town is a window table for two overlooking Church Circle. And one of the coziest spots for a group gathering is the antiques-filled dining room, with pastoral paintings by local artist Jill Petit, who with her husband Andrew, still owns the building.
In the evening, both dining rooms are softly illuminated by candlelight. Background music—Armstrong, Crosby, Sinatra, and such—plays softly. A raspberry champagne sparkler (properly presented with a sugar cube) is a festive start to any meal. Diners can also choose from a full cocktail menu or order wine by the glass or bottle. Napery is crisp, water glasses and silverware gleam. Locally baked crusty French rolls are served with honey-orange butter.
In his starched white shirt and silk tie, our server Nick proved to be cordial, professional, and knowledgeable about the dishes prepared by Chef Antonello Marangi.
“Best ever—better than mine,” my companion declared, after polishing off a Caesar salad, a huge plate of crisp romaine with garlic-egg-lemon dressing kissed with anchovies and topped with parmesan shards.
Meanwhile, I tucked into two seared sea scallops, a broiled mini-crab cake and a giant shrimp nestled on a bed of greens adorned with ribbons of crisp phyllo. Paired with a glass of Washington State chardonnay and a bowl of the chef’s cream of crab soup (with a dash of sherry), this would make a perfect light meal.
The tavern menu suits those who prefer grazing on multiple appetizers to a full-course meal. A pile of steamed mussels in a garlicky white wine broth, served with a half-baguette, begs to be shared. So too does the crepe aubergine (mozzarella-filled paper-thin eggplant slices, in a deep-flavored tomato sauce).
Alas, an entrée of limp shrimp, crab, and spinach crepes missed the boat, despite the tasty béchamel sauce and side of asparagus. My companion praised the hearty British-inspired Bangers and Mash (homemade pork sausage and mashed potatoes in a rich gravy. Another cold-weather dish, described as a “perpetual favorite,” is Hunter’s Chicken: Mushroom-studded Marsala sauce over venison sausage and boneless chicken breast served with fresh green beans and mashed potatoes.
My favorite entrée was rockfish ala Giudea, a Jewish-inspired preparation that you may have seen in Joan Nathan’s cookbook. Chef Marangi masterfully combines shallots, pine huts, cured olives and white wine in a sauté of rockfish filet crowned with lump crabmeat. Next time, I want to try the “crispy-skinned” duck breast, sauced with a “blueberry port reduction” and wild rice pilaf.
Desserts are all made in-house. The exquisite miniature pastries—a steal at $6.50 for nine items—are like those served at tea: savory pecan tart, tangy lemon bar, hummingbird cake, buttery shortbread cookies (one flavored with lavender, the other with orange), and a raspberry marzipan confection. Other dessert options are the chef’s bread pudding du jour, using seasonal fruits (we loved the peach), homemade pound cake with caramel sauce and Chantilly cream, apple crisp, and Chocolate Heaven cake.
Reluctant to leave without one of the tavern’s legendary scones, we walked away with a box of six (blueberry, plain, and cranberry-orange), a container of homemade strawberry preserves, and thick whipped cream, packaged in a handsome white paper sack for $15. The next morning, they served as a tasty reminder of the pleasant experience we had enjoyed at one of our town’s most historic homes.
